INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS AND SAFETY
Whether you are homeowner/installer or a paid contractor/installer, we strongly recommend reading this link. It may save your life.
www.safety-engineer.com/ladder.htm
INTRODUCTION
Installing our Blackhawk gutter defense system is not rocket science. However, if you have never installed this product, rest assured, we have. We will save you some grief (and possibly injury), some time, and some expense if you read these instructions.
Properly installed, Blackhawk is the best value on the market. Take advantage of the writer's experience. We do not charge extra for it.
Even properly installed, it is not perfect. (We try to tell the whole truth-many in this industry do not.) We know of only one product on the market that is on a par with Blackhawk, but you will pay 2-3 times as much money for it - and the manufacturer will still tell you (because they are honest) it's not perfect and that it needs occasional maintenance. There is no such thing as a "maintenance free" gutter protection product-and probably never will be, unless you have no trees anywhere near your house. If they say theirs is maintenance free, they are either ignorant or lying.
Also, there are a number of cheaper products still available at some building supply stores. If you want a cheap initial price, go ahead and install one of them. Some stores have stopped selling these low-end products because of the problems and complaints.
In a few years or less, it will be caving in, blown away, warped by the sun, crushed by falling limbs, clogged up, or something a lot worse like making your fascia or soffitt ROT because it's not doing the job. Out-of-sight, out-of-mind. BEEN THERE - DONE THAT.
EQUIPMENT YOU WILL NEED
LADDER STABILIZER
Strongly Recommended FOR SAFETY SAKE (Don't kill yourself !!!!!)
In addition to needing a ladder or ladders, your most important equipment is a stabilizer (see picture). About a $40.00 investment at Lowe's or your local hardware store could save your life. A commonly available stabilizer is made by Werner - the most common brand-name in ladders. Their stabilizers come with installation instructions that are fairly simple.
Whether you are a contractor or a do-it-yourselfer, you really risk life and limb without a stabilizer. According to one source, about 100,000 people in the U.S. are injured annually while over 300 die in "simple falls" from ladders. We're not talking "simple falls" here.
According to the US Department of Labor,
Statistically, if you fall over 11 feet, your odds of surviving are only 50%.
In 2002, a former Chairman of our Joint Chiefs of Staff, General Hugh Shelton, spent 38 days in Walter Reed Army Hospital for spinal cord injuries because of a ladder accident.
The Werner stabilizer bar attaches at or near the top of a Werner ladder. It will not properly fit other brands of ladders, and with another brand of ladder you could be increasing your risk even with a Werner stabilizer.
The stabilizer, in addition to making the job safer, will make it easier. Without a stabilizer, any brand of extension ladder including Werner will have to lean against your gutter and will be in your way. With the stabilizer, the leg ends of the stabilizer sit on the roof. They help keep the ladder from leaning on and bending your gutter, and help keep the ladder out of your way. The stabilizer also helps keep the ladder from sliding left or right.
Even with the stabilizer, you should be aware of some dangers.
First, ladders can be very difficult and dangerously deceptive to safely move. The easiest Werner extension ladder to move is a 20-footer (which makes its collapsed length just over 12 feet with the stabilizer attached). The 20-footer is adequate for most one story homes if on level ground, and can be moved by a reasonably strong healthy person even with the stabilizer attached.
Most two-story houses (and some one-story) will require a 32 footer and we strongly recommend that you have a good strong helper when moving a 32-footer. Occasionally, but rarely, a house with high gutters will require a 40-foot Werner ladder.
The 40-footer requires (believe me) two very healthy and strong people to move. Anything requiring more than a 40-foot ladder (maybe even more than a 32 footer), will require renting a cherry picker from your contractor rental equipment company or hiring a contractor.
Note: For the do-it-yourselfer, you may want to consider renting a ladder instead of buying one, especially if you need a 32 or 40 foot. Do not forget however, you will need a way to get it home and return it or you may have to pay to get it delivered.
One of the dangers you may face, especially if the ground is uneven, is not getting the ladder straight up side-to-side. If it's not straight, don't get on it even with the stabilizer. Additionally, make sure the bottom is far enough away from the house to keep the top against the house once you have mounted the ladder. If you do not feel comfortable climbing on ladders, we recommend you hire a local contractor to install our product.
Another precaution that should be taken when moving a ladder is to collapse it to its shortest length. For example, an extended ladder may be movable even by one person when it is vertical (straight up and down).
However, if you do not understand the laws of physics regarding leverage, it can quickly become unmanageable and dangerous even for two people if not handled properly.
When collapsing a ladder (especially a 32-footer or longer), one person should put a heavy foot on the bottom rung while the other hand-walks the rungs while lowering or raising the top end. Otherwise when hand lowering or raising the ladder, the center-of-gravity can suddenly change and the ladder can "flip out" and the top-end will land anywhere it wants to.
WORKING FROM THE ROOF OR FROM THE LADDER?
If your roof pitch is not uncomfortably or dangerously steep, our product is easier to install from the roof. Some jobs, depending on the house, can be partially installed from the roof and the balance installed from the ladder. The time consuming element that makes the job take longer is that ladders have to be moved frequently. If you have a low pitch roof it's easier to move your body when installing the product than it is to move a 32 or 40 foot ladder every 4 feet or less.
When working from the ladder, start on the right end of each run and move left as you install each 4 foot section. If working from the roof of course it's the opposite and you'll need to start from the left end of each run. (Important Definition: a run is defined as a continuous gutter section including inside and outside corners from one end cap to the next). A run can include 90 degree inside and/or outside corners or in some instances (in the case of bow windows or bay windows) can be at some other angle.
Our product is made in 4 foot lengths with a mating end that overlaps the adjacent piece. The ends will not mate properly if not installed in the correct sequence as described above.
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES NEEDED
1. A pair of metal shears with a straight blade-readily available at Lowe's or your local hardware store.
2. A portable power drill with torque limiter, a phillips tip, and at least one (preferably two) fully charged battery pack(s).
3. A small-to-medium flat blade screwdriver.
4. A tube or two of clear RTV (room temperature vulcanizing) silicon sealant. This product is available at most hardware or automobile parts stores in toothpaste-size tubes, or in full-size caulk tubes.
5. An ice pick (not pictured), or possibly two, can be very useful when moving or sliding a section of Blackhawk precisely into place. The sharp point easily penetrates the mesh with minimal damage that can be patched easily with a small dot of RTV caulking.
6. One additional tool you may want to consider, especially if you take measurements alone, is a measuring wheel. With it you can measure the job alone and be reasonably accurate if you have a good eye. Simply make a sketch and measure each run from the ground. It's not quite as accurate but will save you some time.
7. A box of plastic office paperclips.
8. Enough sheet metal screws to fasten each section of Blackhawk into place. We recommend stainless steel, phillips, truss head, sheet metal screws. Stainless steel-because they do not rust. Phillips because they are much easier to work with using a power drill. Truss head-because their low profile minimizes debris getting caught or snagging on them. Sheet metal thread-because of their sharp point and ease to get started. Do not drill the screws through any roofing shingles. Doing so could possibly void your roofing warranty. You will need 3 screws for each 4 foot section. Figure a box of 100 for each 120 feet of Blackhawk. You are not likely to find these screws at your local hardware. Fastener stores should have them.
Rarely are runs (see definition above) an even multiple of 4 feet. This means for each run you'll probably need to cut at least one piece of Blackhawk. Allow for an extra piece for cuts, end caps, corners, etc. when measuring your gutters if you have a total of only 2 or 3 runs. With 4 or more runs, allow even more.
BEFORE ORDERING OUR PRODUCT
 Blackhawk Gutter Defense is for K style gutters only (see picture). This style of gutter accounts for the vast majority of gutter found on low to upper-middle priced, as well as most high end priced homes. If your gutters are half-round or some other type, we do not make a product for them.
Specify 5" wide or 6" wide (at the gutter top). Most homes have the 5" wide gutters. If you are adding or replacing gutters on your home and have a very high pitched roof, we recommend the 6" gutters. Otherwise the 5" are adequate. Remember that our Blackhawk product comes in 4 foot long sections.
The flat side of the Blackhawk goes under the bottom roofing shingle(s) but on top of any tar paper covering the roof decking.
The lip always goes over the inside front lip of the gutters. If your gutters have been properly installed, they will have a slight down hill slope toward the downspouts. If they do not, we strongly recommend removing and resetting them before installing the Blackhawk.
INSTALLATION STEPS
1. Using the shears, cut off the first ¾ inch of the lip, from the piece going against the first end cap. Remember-from the ladder (or the ground) you are starting at the right end cap.
2. With the lip out of the way, the surface of the Blackhawk will overlap the top of the gutter end cap.
3. You are now ready to place this piece against the first end cap.
4. Begin to lift some shingles and begin to place the section under the bottom shingles but on top of any tar paper and at an angle. Gradually push the section well under the shingles until all the lip is just inside the gutter. At this point, this section should not be touching the end cap or adjacent completed section but should be about the same distance under the shingles along the entire length of the section.
5. Now the entire section is pushed or pulled forward to seat its V shaped lip over the back side of the gutter lip. Once the lip is in place, simply slide the entire piece over the end cap or over the end of the adjacent piece. Make absolutely certain any and all shingles are on top of the Blackhawk. Also, to make it easier to get over the top of the section already in place, the in-place adjacent frame can be bent slightly downward. Then the new piece will slide easily into place with about 1/2" overlapping, and then screwed to the gutter lip.
6. Once it is in place, the entire length should be as far forward as possible. Here, an ice pick can be very helpful in moving the Blackhawk precisely into its final position and holding it there while being screwed to the gutter lip.
7. At some point (before a corner or at the other end cap you will need to cut a length of Blackhawk to fit.
8. Outside and inside corners are cut differently.
9. Outside corners-If a 90 degree outside corner is involved, for example, simply cut the ends to mate at about 45 degrees. If the Blackhawk is lying flat, the angle would be 45 degree. The steeper the roof angle, the greater the angle needs to be. The cut does not need to be exact because the joint can be caulked.
10. Inside corners - simply cut the Blackhawk and butt at 90 degrees. If the inside corner is at the base of a large valley where debris collects, you may want to consider removing some trees or tree limbs, or cleaning these valleys periodically. The gutters with Blackhawk in place should take the water if not restricted by accumulated debris.
INSTALLATION TIPS
1. Be sure to caulk or cover any holes large enough for bugs, critters or varmints to get inside.
2. Anytime your gutter extends beyond your roof shingles, there will probably be a hole that needs to be covered and caulked at the back of and above the gutter, and beyond the shingles.
3. Try not to have a joint directly over an entry door, porch, walkway or steps in the event your caulk seam is not adequate. This will perhaps help keep someone from getting their head wet.
4. Seams should be spot caulked without a continuous run of caulk. This will help reduce possible water over-dripping at the seams.
5. Occasionally the mesh at a seam will tend to "roll up" and the caulking may not hold until it has cured, thus leaving a gap. To solve this problem, have some plastic office paper clips and simply paper clip the mesh to the frame. Once the caulking cures, the paper clips can be removed if someone wants to make the effort. Metal paper clips will eventually rust. This is the reason you need plastic in case the paper clips don't get removed.
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